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Increasing issues with Preform And Form 3

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@GridlockSys wrote:

My frustration is growing. I had a very trouble free start for the first few months. No problems printing or fails.

Now I am running about 50% fails for the past month or so. After the new Preform updates, incredibly long print times because the model lifts out of the resin and sits a minute or more before lowering and printing the next layer.

Is there a way to get it to stop doing these unnecessary lifts and waits? Also hearing random strange sounds and movements. I really wish someone from Form Labs would address these threads more often.

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Clear prints with seamless joints on multi-part prints- UV glue/laser curing

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@unorthodoxdes wrote:

I am trying to print a multi-part, clear item. (Too large to print as 1 piece)

I want to try and optimize clarity of the glue joints that hold the printed pieces together. My first inclination is to use liquid resin as a glue, and use a handheld laser of the same power and 405 nm wavelength as the form to cure the clear resin.
Ideally you join with the same materials and processes used to create the pieces in the first place for consistent clarity.

However, I am questioning if this method will work because if the ‘spectral inhibitors/blockers’ in the resins that limit light penetration (even in clear).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I

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Sanding/polishing down Dental/biocompatible resin for an ultra smooth finish

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@CyaNBluE wrote:

Hi all,

We use the dental and biocompatible resin for a lot of our cell culture lab work for certain reactors. The current resolution (50 microns) is too big as our cells are around 10-25 microns in size. I was wondering if I sand the prints down with grits moving towards a high grit (3000+), will I be able to remove the layer discrepancies and almost achieve an ultra smooth finish?

I attached a short sketch to illustrate what I’m asking about (please excuse the atrocious paint job).

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Substantial Failures on Tough V5

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@leonhart88 wrote:

Just wondering if people are experiencing more failures with Tough V5 on the newest version of firmware. I can’t post pictures of the parts I’m printing, but I’m experiencing a significant amount of crazy warping/distortion and also tanks that get punctured very early.

Am curious if anyone else has some anecdotal issues.

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Black spot on bottom of resin tank

Denture Teeth A3 problems

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@Carchanestar wrote:

Hello all! I’ve bought a Teeth Denture A3 resin with the hopes to print some teeth (individually) to fix up some old prothesis, in the hopes for not buying more acrylic teeth. Enormous was my surprise that, after 3 attemps, there was nothing on the build platform… even if inspecting the tank, nothing solid.
Is there any special configuration for this resin on the 3B?

Thanks in advance for answering!

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Dental sg turned green after baking on 120℃ for 2h

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@Joe4 wrote:

After UV postprocessing, Dental SG turned orange. Following that, I put the printed object in a 120 ℃ oven for 2h
.Then the printed object turned back to yellow-green. Is this normal? Looking forward to replies, Thanks!

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Form 3 needs a Mix Tank operation

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@rkagerer wrote:

@gtl @dkirch Have you guys considered giving us a button in the firmware to make the mixer stir the tank for a bit? (e.g. 5-10 minutes). It would be a really useful feature (and would also reduce the amount of potentially harmful manual mixing required).

I’m sure you’re aware, some resins become a sludgy, sloppy goo if they’re left in the tank for a while without being used. This happens to me all the time with Black v4, but stirring the tank until it becomes runny and homogeneous again always results in perfect prints.

I’m not sure how long it takes for the sludge to precipitate, but today I had a nasty layer of it on the bottom of a Form 3 tank which was last used 5 months ago. I had installed the tank before realizing that, and surprisingly the mixer managed to get to the other side of the tank, but then it popped off when the machine tried to retract it back to the left.

This was the first time I had to deal with sludge on the Form 3, and it’s a little more challenging to stir than the old Form 2 and Form 1+ tanks (the new tank tool doesn’t do a good a job as a spatula). The clumps also get stuck throughout the holes of the mixer. Once I was able to mix it enough to restore free movement of the mixer, it would have been nice to delegate the rest of the task to the printer.

The handful of back and forth swipes it does before starting a print aren’t nearly enough for this scenario. I wound up abandoning and restarting the print a few times to coax it into some more swipes, but it would have been really nice if I could have just told it to periodically stir for a few minutes and let it do it’s thing. In fact, if the feature existed I might be inclined to schedule “mixing maintenance” every few weeks on my tanks and cycle them all through.

I know 5 months is probably longer than recommended (although the printer didn’t show any warnings about tank lifetime), but surely other customers also run into this on occasion?

Thanks!

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Печать другими полимерами

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@MAC191 wrote:

Здравствуйте. Как печатать на form 3 без картриджа?

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Resin tank getting stuck to build plate/prints between layers

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@TTCombat wrote:

Especially during the first layers (maybe sub 100) when the Z-Axis raises the build plate the resin tank is stuck to it. It eventually unpeels and slaps back down, but I think it’s causing issues with layers peeling away from each other or supports failing to stay in place.
It happens with full build plates and even when I’m printing just one small part. The raft areas are not big, maybe four centimetres wide at best, but often a lot smaller.

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Fine Tuning and Post-Curing Shrinkage

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@rkagerer wrote:

Hi,

When I print a 10mm cube directly on the build platform, does the printer scale the size up slightly to account for post-curing shrinkage? Or should I expect the “green” part to always come out 10mm x 10mm on the platform regardless of which resin is used?

e.g. After some rough measurements I determined my cubes printed in Black v4 resin shrink an average of 0.3% in X and Y after 30 minutes of curing at 60°C.

I’m doing X/Y Fine Tuning and need to know if I should be targeting the green or post-cured dimension (i.e. whether the boxes should be 10mm or 10.03mm when still attached to the build platform).

Thanks!

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Formlabs CEO and Marvel Studios Propmaster - SEND US YOUR QUESTIONS!

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@DKirch wrote:

Hello everyone!

Coming up next week, on October 27th-28th we’re hosting our third Formlabs User Summit! This a completely free 2-day conference full of sessions held by some of our amazing users, as well as info sessions about all of our products from Formlabs employees and experts!

As a part of this event, we’ll be holding two Q&A sessions with Max Lobovsky, CEO of Formlabs, and Russel Bobbitt, prop-master for Marvel Studios. I wanted to take a moment to ask our amazing community(hey, that’s you!) to submit any questions you have for these speakers here, and we’ll pass them along!

Whether you have a question to ask, or you can just join us for a session or two throughout the two days, we’re really looking forward to seeing you there!

Check out and register for the conference here! Thank you so much everyone, and have a great rest of your week!

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Temperature considerations

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@rybu wrote:

Hi all,

I moved my Form 3 home recently, and have it in the garage. Last night while it was printing it looks like the garage got fairly cold. I was wondering if anyone knows what the acceptable temperature range is for reliable printing? Specifically, temperature reported by the Form 3. For example, right now it’s about 6c outside, and it looks like the printer is having a hard time maintaining 30c – without heating the garage I see printer temperature easily dropping to 25c.

My presumption is if the printer is too cold or too hot, there might be print issues that develop. Anyone have a sense for what those are, and what temperature range they occur at?

I imagine this might depend a bit on resin type.

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Form 2 Failed to Start Print

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@Kilmare wrote:

I had not printed for a couple months because of covid, came back to my machine to find it had a firmware update now every print generates the same error that is not on the list of errors in the troubleshooting guide. I have removed my resin tray and cartridge and reset them and tried everything else I can think of.

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Resign Tank Heatup takes 3 to 4 hours

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@slurton wrote:

I have a formlabs 3. But my resign tank takes between 3 or 4 hours to heat up to 31 c.
Is this normal?

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Need Print Services ASAP

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@israho wrote:

Hey there,

Printing 2 sculptures in resin. This is the final step before they get sent off to create silicone molds that will be used to create wax molds for glass casting. They are large. One is 183.2 × 190.3 × 230.0 mm Second is 182.6 × 182.6 × 310.0 mm 50 Micron’s or lower res. Need it done in one solid print (no gluing). White resin preferred.

Here they both are:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J_TAJkEZNgETkS9OR2U-mH2fs96qiErk/view?usp=sharing

I’m in Chicago.

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Form 2 not detecting resin tank

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@rward1 wrote:

Hi. My form 2 does not detect resin tanks. I seen that on a post someone got support from Formlabs to adjust the spring fingers that are under the resin tank. They attached photos and a diagram of how they should look.

Does anyone have any details or instructions on how to actually carry this out?

Thanks
Ryan

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Need casting Help!

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@zwoolsey wrote:

So we purchased the Form3 printer around March April this year. printing is going great! no issues there. its the burnout schedule we are having issues with. We are using the purple castable wax resin, washed twice in IPA, dried before spruing, investment is R&R Plasticast, mixed at a 40:1 ratio. After mixing, its vacuumed, poured into the flask, (2.5x3) vacuumed again. Left to set up untouched for 4 hours. Placed in room temp kiln (usually around 70-77F) First we ramp up 5 degrees F/Min to 300F (holding for 3 hours), next ramp is 72 degrees F/Min to 1450F hold for 4 hours. Ramp down 72F/Min to 1250. The pieces are not overly heavy but have some fine filigree work. Casting with new casting grain, 14k white, 14ky, and 10ky. Im used to casting wax models with no issues, now casting these resins, I can’t seem to find a medium here. Some have come out okay, while others have seemed to fallen short. Seeing everything from porosity, to fine yellow powder from ash residue, incomplete castings messing with can tempetures raising and lowering. Does anyone have a solid idea of a burnout schedule. Also we are introducing air into the kiln during burnout. using an air compressor pumping lest then 1psi of air. does anyone have a lead on recommended air flow needed to provide a solid burnout? to little air we get the ash residue, to much air the kiln doesn’t reach tempeture. I don’t know what to do anymore, I’m pulling my hair out.

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Problems using custom settings on preform openfl version

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@VectorResearch wrote:

Using a form 1 printer while we evaluate the technology and deciding which system we want to go with for our larger rollout of expanded capability. We have installed OpenFL and updated firmware to Version 1.44

When we try to load a custom material INI we get the following error trying to upload to the printer. We have tried several computers to rule out an install issue.

“there was an unknown error processing the job. processing and uploading cannot continue”

We have tried several different material files, including the example file. It does not appear to be an issue with the material file.

If someone could shed some light on this or suggest further trouble shooting steps it would be appreciated.

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Craters around supports

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